Herringbone flooring however has recently become extremely popular especially in the LVT world.The main difference is probably the size of the tiles.A herringbone pattern can be laid with any size tile and recently all the manufacturers have created new sizes to meet the demand. Karndean introduced an 18 inch x 3 inch tile to their Knight Tile range which proved so popular that they then introduced the same size to some of their Art Select Range. Likewise Amtico brought out a Form range to cater for demand. The herringbone pattern however can be laid with even larger tiles eg 48 inches x 7 inches, provided of course you have a large enough floor area.Obviously in a small hallway it would be impossible to achieve the desired effect with a large tile, hence the old classic parquet size tile would be used, because effectively it is the same flooring pattern.
Monday 8 January 2024
Herringbone Flooring or Parquet Flooring
Herringbone flooring is a form of pattern that basically any Luxury Vinyl Tile can be laid to.Likewise parquet flooring is another name for basically the same thing.Parquet flooring was originally a type of wood flooring that has been around for hundreds of years, found in Churches,Schools and lots of high value buildings.The wood tiles were usually a standard 9 inches x 3 inches in size. Karndean and Amtico both produce this same size tile in a vinyl tile resembling the original wood ones and both are very, very authentic looking.They have been available for years and considered classic in both wood and vinyl.
Wednesday 29 January 2020
Amtico and Karndean. Why?
Amtico and Karndean are two companies who manufacture and sell Luxury Vinyl Tiles.There are many other companies such as Polyflor, Tarkett, Altro etc offering the same type of product.Nowadays a lot of flooring distributors even have their own tiles manufactured abroad to market under their own brand name,but Amtico and Karndean are perhaps the two best known and the two brand leaders.The tiles themselves are made from pvc to look like wood planks or stone and ceramic tiles.How much they resemble real wood and real stone is probably directly related to the cost of each tile.
Most manufacturers have different ranges of tiles offering different features.Karndean has a less expensive range called Knight Tile which is 2mm thick and flat. Their Art Select range is 3mm thick, bevelled to 2.5mm thick at all edges to give a more pronounced individual plank or tile appearance and is quite a bit more expensive.They are also more heavily contoured on the surface, again leading to a more realistic or authentic look. Amtico have introduced a lot of new ranges recently but their main two are the Spacia and Signature ranges.They are all 2.5mm thick with a micro bevel at the edges but the Signature is quite a lot more expensive than Spacia.This range offers lots of bespoke options in the sizes available and pattern options and contemporary designs but everything is made to order.The Spacia range offers less size options,sizes and designs but is readily available off the shelf.
From a construction point of view as a surveyor ,I have no idea of what goes into the manufacturer of the tiles.However from an installers point of view I can categorically say that you definitely only get what you pay for in the world of Design Flooring or Luxury Vinyl Tiles.Really cheap pvc tiles are available everywhere on the internet and the colours and designs are usually very acceptable. However with Karndean and Amtico I've yet to see a tile snap or break unintentionally in a fitters hands.They are normally very durable and solid.I have seen the really cheap ones fracture like ceramics while trying to cut and install them.Likewise really cheap tiles have a tendency to expand and contract a lot more in adverse temperature conditions.All of these tiles should only ever be fitted in temperatures above 18 or 19 degrees C. A constant temperature for the tiles is crucial 24 hours before, during the installation and for 24 hours after.All manufacturers state this on their packaging and installation instructions. However most people will try and save a few pounds of electricity overnight and think it's ok to turn the heating down.In Summer with a good tile it will probably be ok.In Winter with a cheap tile it definitely won't be.
Personally I prefer the more expensive ranges in both Karndean and Amtico for the overall finished look.That said I do think that a really good choice of colour for the floor to match kitchen units etc or a good laying pattern can make a massive difference to the overall finished look even with the less expensive tiles.However a combination of a really good tile and a really good layout is just about unbeatable.They're called design floors because there's so many options and I think that Karndean and Amtico offer more options and better quality products than any of the other manufacturers.( In my opinion).
Wednesday 7 June 2017
Adhesives For Luxury Vinyl Tiles
Adhesives for Luxury Vinyl Tiles
When laying a new vinyl floor,whether it is a vinyl sheet floor, eg Polyflor Standard XL or a luxury vinyl tile floor, eg Karndean or Amtico,there are quite a few different adhesive options to choose from.The main four are:-
When laying a new vinyl floor,whether it is a vinyl sheet floor, eg Polyflor Standard XL or a luxury vinyl tile floor, eg Karndean or Amtico,there are quite a few different adhesive options to choose from.The main four are:-
- Acrylic Adhesive
- Pressure Sensitive Adhesive
- High Temperature Adhesive
- Epoxy Adhesive
They can all be used at certain times to do technically the same job of sticking the vinyl to the subfloor, but depending on when they are used and more importantly how they are used,can be the difference between long term success or failure of the floor.Large vinyl tile manufacturers eg Amtico and Karndean specify their own adhesives which must be used to adhere to their warranty conditions. F.Ball & Co Ltd are a major company who manufacture for a lot of other companies and are generally regarded as a product leader.They manufacturer adhesives for use with lots of other materials eg Lino, Rubber,Wood, Carpet etc but also the four that are pertinent to vinyl flooring.
- Acrylic Adhesive
Acrylic adhesive or F44 as made by F.Ball & Co is perhaps the most used adhesive.With vinyl tiles F44 would normally be used in areas where the tiles have already been dry fitted eg an outer border or corridor or in smaller sections of a larger floor.Once spread, a floor layer would normally wait twenty minutes or so for the adhesive to turn or become slightly tacky, so that once the tiles are placed in it,they will pretty much grab or take hold immediately with little room for error and readjustment.In addition the adhesive only has a limited open time, ie when it is still actively able to do its job. Usually 60-90 minutes or so.Spread too large an area or take too long to cut any tiles and the adhesive becomes dead and wont do its job.
- Pressure Sensitive Adhesive
Pressure sensitive adhesive or F46 as made by F.Ball & Co is applied to the subfloor in larger areas.It is usually white or cream in colour which is then left to become clear. This can take at least an hour and sometimes longer.Once it has turned then a floor layer has a couple of hours to lay the tiles into it.This is ideal for larger floor areas where there little or no cutting and fitting needed, eg central fields and large uninterrupted areas.Once the tiles have been fitted then they must be rolled with a 69 kg roller to ensure even spread of the adhesive, but also as the name suggests, the adhesive becomes stronger after pressure has been applied.Sometimes however when using certain vinyl tiles, eg random panel tiles from Karndean, the floor layer has to lay the tiles while the adhesive is classed as wet, i.e you don't wait at all.So it can sometimes be a little misleading.
- High Temperature Adhesive
High temperature adhesive or F48 as made by F.Ball & Co is used primarily when there is underfloor heating in the subfloor or also when a conservatory or sun room would just become too hot for a normal adhesive to withstand the suns rays.This adhesive is more like a paste.It has very little open time at all and must be used in very small areas.The floor layer goes into the adhesive wet and it must be rolled pretty much immediately.After 15 minutes or so it will be fully adhered.Unfortunately during that 15 minutes or more, the tiles will move if pushed or touched, so it has to be done slowly and methodically in lots of small areas, which becomes quite time consuming, in comparison to pressure sensitive adhesive.If too big an area is spread then the adhesive will become ineffectual and the floor will eventually fail.
- Epoxy Adhesive
Epoxy adhesive or F81 as made by F.Ball & Co is a seriously effective two part mixture that results in a high temperature chemical reaction, which will stick just about anything.However it is one to be avoided if possible.It's use is mainly for areas where moisture would be a problem for normal adhesives, eg swimming pool areas, external vinyl areas and also for example sticking vinyl to stainless steel gantries or platforms in manufacturing or marine environments.The floor layer again goes into the adhesive while it is wet, but the floor covering can move around quite easily and it is the most difficult product to use correctly and also remove from clothes, etc.An adhesive best left for the professional.
Wednesday 12 December 2012
Karndean and Amtico Floor Failure - What can go wrong?
Karndean and Amtico are two companies who manufacture luxury vinyl tiles.Their products are sold worldwide and have a very upmarket image and a price tag to match.It has to be said however that when the floors have been laid correctly then the finished article is usually well worth the money involved.Sometimes customers become confused with the charges associated with fitting these products in comparison to say cushion vinyl flooring,which is also marketed as vinyl flooring, just like Karndean and Amtico.Basically one is a permanent or resilient floor and the other is comparable to carpet.Very little can go wrong in fitting carpet,but everything can go wrong when fitting Karndean and Amtico.
Determining whether the Karndean or Amtico is being fitted to a concrete or wood subfloor is the first step in the process.If wood then the whole floor needs to be overlaid with plywood. Plywood boards can be bought from between £6 to £20 each depending on where they come from and the quality.Usually 6mm plywood boards are used but if a subfloor is of poor quality,i.e uneven then 9mm ply might be used.The plywood itself should be boil proof and waterproof and of at least external quality.Unfortunately this is not always the case.We have in the past purchased plywood supposedly suitable for purpose which unfortunatley wasn't.On initial cutting and fitting, the boards delaminated in places and had to be replaced.Worse still was when the adhesive was applied.Instead of being waterproof the adhesive soaked into the plywood and after a few hours and after the tiles had been laid, the floor started to lift due to delamination of the plywood again.The result was a disaster. Everything was scrap and the whole floor needed to be replaced simply because the plywood wasn't up to scratch.Having experienced this first hand we would never ever purchase cheap plywood again.It's better never to get a job than to have to do it twice.
The same principle applies to a concrete subfloor.These need to be overlaid with a 3mm screed or underlayment.Again prices can vary from £9 per unit to £22 per unit for technically the same thing.Generally one unit of screed on a relatively level floor will cover 5 m2 at a depth of 3mm. Cheap screeds can work fine but if the subfloor is of poor quality,or has residues eg bitumen, adhesive, asphalt or worse still floor paint,then things can easily go wrong.No screed should be laid on top of floor paint.The moisture in the screed soaks into the floor paint and pulls it off the floor below, resulting in an unholy mess the next day.Again the whole lot is scrap.Basically cheap screeds are a big risk.Expensive screeds are less of a risk and generally stay down on top of everything.Good screeds eg.Arditex Na will stick to ashphalt,bitumen,ceramic tiles and even stainless steel and doesn't need a primer.Cheaper ones won't.
Moisture in the subfloor is another major cause of floor failure.Usually any problems or failure of damp proof membranes,a lack of a damp proof membrane or simply moisture in newly poured concrete will all have the same effect.The moisture rises trying to evaporate and the adhesive eventually emulsifies and debonds from the vinyl tile or plank resulting in a total mess.It's important to carry out a hygrometer test to measure the RH %(Relative Humidity) of the air coming from the slab.72% and below and it's ok to lay the floor.Above that and a liquid damp proof membrane is required.
Underfloor heating can be another cause for concern.Technically Karnead and Amtico should be able to tolerate surface temperatures up to 27 degrees Centigrade.The underfloor heating system must be switched off 48 hours before and during the installation and 48 hours after.And then only switched on very gradually over a few days.Rarely does this happen in the middle of Winter. Customers just crank it up not giving adhesives and tiles time to bond.Undue heat or cold also causes problems with expansion and contraction of the vinyl itself.Also it's important that the tiles are laid out and acclimatised in the room 24 hours prior to laying ,and also that the correct adhesive,in this case high temperature adhesive,is used to prevent gapping or bulging of the tiles.In addition to all this the tiles should never be laid in temperatures below 17 degrees centigrade.
Another cause for concern can be if the subfloor is not concrete.Nowadays lots of builders use an anhydrite pumped screed instead of concrete.It looks like concrete,it's easier to lay,quicker and cheaper and it's virtually visually impossible to tell the difference.However anhydrite floors must be scarified,i.e the top surface or laitance that is left from the initial laying process must be removed and the anhydrite floor must be primed and absolutely 100 % must be dry.These things can all cause the screed and the floor to lift and not necessarily at the time of laying the floor.Usually failure will ocurr a few weeks later,when everthing has been replaced and repositioned on the new floor.
Over and above all of these problems which can ocurr, probably the most important factor to avoid all of this, is to have a good floor layer.Most floor layers say they can fit Luxury vinyl tiles because it's very well paid but unfortunately there's a massive difference between a carpet fitter and a vinyl flooring fitter.It's very important to have someone who has had a time served apprenticeship,is properly accredited eg a CSCS card carrier,who has pride in his work and who only deems the job to be finished when it is finished and not when his wife says he needs to be home by. I am not a floor layer.I am a quantity surveyor who runs a flooring company and I know through expereience that there are only a small number of good Karndean and Amtico floor layers who are worth the money they are paid.Luckily for me and my customers I know I have a couple of good ones.In general terms,the old addage you only get what you pay for, is 100% applicable to the installation costs and charges for Luxury Vinyl Tiles to hopefully avoid any problems and thus extra costs, other than what's necessary.
Determining whether the Karndean or Amtico is being fitted to a concrete or wood subfloor is the first step in the process.If wood then the whole floor needs to be overlaid with plywood. Plywood boards can be bought from between £6 to £20 each depending on where they come from and the quality.Usually 6mm plywood boards are used but if a subfloor is of poor quality,i.e uneven then 9mm ply might be used.The plywood itself should be boil proof and waterproof and of at least external quality.Unfortunately this is not always the case.We have in the past purchased plywood supposedly suitable for purpose which unfortunatley wasn't.On initial cutting and fitting, the boards delaminated in places and had to be replaced.Worse still was when the adhesive was applied.Instead of being waterproof the adhesive soaked into the plywood and after a few hours and after the tiles had been laid, the floor started to lift due to delamination of the plywood again.The result was a disaster. Everything was scrap and the whole floor needed to be replaced simply because the plywood wasn't up to scratch.Having experienced this first hand we would never ever purchase cheap plywood again.It's better never to get a job than to have to do it twice.
The same principle applies to a concrete subfloor.These need to be overlaid with a 3mm screed or underlayment.Again prices can vary from £9 per unit to £22 per unit for technically the same thing.Generally one unit of screed on a relatively level floor will cover 5 m2 at a depth of 3mm. Cheap screeds can work fine but if the subfloor is of poor quality,or has residues eg bitumen, adhesive, asphalt or worse still floor paint,then things can easily go wrong.No screed should be laid on top of floor paint.The moisture in the screed soaks into the floor paint and pulls it off the floor below, resulting in an unholy mess the next day.Again the whole lot is scrap.Basically cheap screeds are a big risk.Expensive screeds are less of a risk and generally stay down on top of everything.Good screeds eg.Arditex Na will stick to ashphalt,bitumen,ceramic tiles and even stainless steel and doesn't need a primer.Cheaper ones won't.
Moisture in the subfloor is another major cause of floor failure.Usually any problems or failure of damp proof membranes,a lack of a damp proof membrane or simply moisture in newly poured concrete will all have the same effect.The moisture rises trying to evaporate and the adhesive eventually emulsifies and debonds from the vinyl tile or plank resulting in a total mess.It's important to carry out a hygrometer test to measure the RH %(Relative Humidity) of the air coming from the slab.72% and below and it's ok to lay the floor.Above that and a liquid damp proof membrane is required.
Underfloor heating can be another cause for concern.Technically Karnead and Amtico should be able to tolerate surface temperatures up to 27 degrees Centigrade.The underfloor heating system must be switched off 48 hours before and during the installation and 48 hours after.And then only switched on very gradually over a few days.Rarely does this happen in the middle of Winter. Customers just crank it up not giving adhesives and tiles time to bond.Undue heat or cold also causes problems with expansion and contraction of the vinyl itself.Also it's important that the tiles are laid out and acclimatised in the room 24 hours prior to laying ,and also that the correct adhesive,in this case high temperature adhesive,is used to prevent gapping or bulging of the tiles.In addition to all this the tiles should never be laid in temperatures below 17 degrees centigrade.
Another cause for concern can be if the subfloor is not concrete.Nowadays lots of builders use an anhydrite pumped screed instead of concrete.It looks like concrete,it's easier to lay,quicker and cheaper and it's virtually visually impossible to tell the difference.However anhydrite floors must be scarified,i.e the top surface or laitance that is left from the initial laying process must be removed and the anhydrite floor must be primed and absolutely 100 % must be dry.These things can all cause the screed and the floor to lift and not necessarily at the time of laying the floor.Usually failure will ocurr a few weeks later,when everthing has been replaced and repositioned on the new floor.
Over and above all of these problems which can ocurr, probably the most important factor to avoid all of this, is to have a good floor layer.Most floor layers say they can fit Luxury vinyl tiles because it's very well paid but unfortunately there's a massive difference between a carpet fitter and a vinyl flooring fitter.It's very important to have someone who has had a time served apprenticeship,is properly accredited eg a CSCS card carrier,who has pride in his work and who only deems the job to be finished when it is finished and not when his wife says he needs to be home by. I am not a floor layer.I am a quantity surveyor who runs a flooring company and I know through expereience that there are only a small number of good Karndean and Amtico floor layers who are worth the money they are paid.Luckily for me and my customers I know I have a couple of good ones.In general terms,the old addage you only get what you pay for, is 100% applicable to the installation costs and charges for Luxury Vinyl Tiles to hopefully avoid any problems and thus extra costs, other than what's necessary.
Tuesday 24 January 2012
Vinyl Flooring and Dampness
Vinyl flooring is a broad term that includes products from manufacturers such as Karndean, Amtico, Polyflor,Altro etc etc. Karndean and Amtico only produce their flooring in a tile or plank format. However most of the other manufaturers also produce their vinyls in a 2m wide sheet.Whether it's in a tile,plank or sheet format they can all be affected by dampness, but sheet vinyl is by far the most susceptible to failure through moisture.
Dampness does not cause any deterioration in the vinyl itself.It effects the adhesive,causing it to debond from the floor covering and thus it becomes unsightly.Lino on the other hand,which is a natural product made mainly from Linseed oil will itself, actually deteriorate and become holed. It is therefore imperative to understand where this moisture can come from and how to prevent it.
In any new buildings a damp proof membrane will have been placed well below any flooring.However in a new concrete slab when it is first poured there is a water content in the mix.
This water cannot go downwards because of the damp proof membrane,so therefore it can only evaporate upwards.Unfortunately the moisture only evaporates very slowly at a rate of one month for every inch of the concrete floor.So if you have a normal six inch concrete slab then it's going to take 6 months for it to be free of any moisture.Add any cold weather and bad site conditions into the equation and it's easy to see that concrete although technically strong enough to work on can still be too damp to lay vinyl flooring on,especially in a sheet format.With tiles or planks and a minimal damp problem, then evaporation can occur between each tile.The sheet vinyl however just acts as another damp proof membrane and simply traps any moisture between itself and the lower damp proof membrane.Thus the moisture has no where to go and the adhesive fails.
To test for moisture in a concrete floor a hygrometer is used.This is simply a box which is
stuck to the concrete floor with butyl tape.The moisture rising from the concrete below is trapped in the box with the air.Over a 24 hour period the hygrometer measures the moisture content of the air, the RH or relative humidity as a percentage.If the reading is 75% or less then it's perfectly ok to proceed and lay a vinyl sheet etc.If the reading is between 75 - 92% then another damp proof membrane needs to be laid.Anything over 92% and the dpm cannot even be laid and you could probably go for a swim.
In new buildings therefore, any dampness or moisture is usually only in the new concrete slab and it will eventually evaporate.A dpm is only required when a builder or a client can't be bothered to wait 6 months or more.In older buildings however it's quite possible they were built without any dpm at all.Rising damp might have been present indefinitely and never really have been noticed or at least caused any great problems with conventional floor coverings allowing mild moisture levels to evaporate.Vinyl sheet and even tile or plank will not normally allow this to happen.So for Karndean and Amtico which are extremely expensive and obviously for Vinyl sheet,it's quite important to test for moisture in old buildings.
Standard acrylic adhesive is normally used with vinyls and also pressure sensitive.But both will fail with moisture.Epoxy adhesives are available which can withstand moisture attack.They're normally twice as expensive as standard adhesive and doubly difficult to use.But even with epoxy adhesives, moisture will continue to rise and it's not a cure for dampness.The only real cure is a damp proof membrane which prevents any rising dampness reaching the vinyl floor and the adhesive.
Here's a short video diary of how we lay a DPM. Just click on the link below.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v7eCBNrLvjc&feature=player_embedded
Dampness does not cause any deterioration in the vinyl itself.It effects the adhesive,causing it to debond from the floor covering and thus it becomes unsightly.Lino on the other hand,which is a natural product made mainly from Linseed oil will itself, actually deteriorate and become holed. It is therefore imperative to understand where this moisture can come from and how to prevent it.
In any new buildings a damp proof membrane will have been placed well below any flooring.However in a new concrete slab when it is first poured there is a water content in the mix.
This water cannot go downwards because of the damp proof membrane,so therefore it can only evaporate upwards.Unfortunately the moisture only evaporates very slowly at a rate of one month for every inch of the concrete floor.So if you have a normal six inch concrete slab then it's going to take 6 months for it to be free of any moisture.Add any cold weather and bad site conditions into the equation and it's easy to see that concrete although technically strong enough to work on can still be too damp to lay vinyl flooring on,especially in a sheet format.With tiles or planks and a minimal damp problem, then evaporation can occur between each tile.The sheet vinyl however just acts as another damp proof membrane and simply traps any moisture between itself and the lower damp proof membrane.Thus the moisture has no where to go and the adhesive fails.
To test for moisture in a concrete floor a hygrometer is used.This is simply a box which is
stuck to the concrete floor with butyl tape.The moisture rising from the concrete below is trapped in the box with the air.Over a 24 hour period the hygrometer measures the moisture content of the air, the RH or relative humidity as a percentage.If the reading is 75% or less then it's perfectly ok to proceed and lay a vinyl sheet etc.If the reading is between 75 - 92% then another damp proof membrane needs to be laid.Anything over 92% and the dpm cannot even be laid and you could probably go for a swim.
In new buildings therefore, any dampness or moisture is usually only in the new concrete slab and it will eventually evaporate.A dpm is only required when a builder or a client can't be bothered to wait 6 months or more.In older buildings however it's quite possible they were built without any dpm at all.Rising damp might have been present indefinitely and never really have been noticed or at least caused any great problems with conventional floor coverings allowing mild moisture levels to evaporate.Vinyl sheet and even tile or plank will not normally allow this to happen.So for Karndean and Amtico which are extremely expensive and obviously for Vinyl sheet,it's quite important to test for moisture in old buildings.
Standard acrylic adhesive is normally used with vinyls and also pressure sensitive.But both will fail with moisture.Epoxy adhesives are available which can withstand moisture attack.They're normally twice as expensive as standard adhesive and doubly difficult to use.But even with epoxy adhesives, moisture will continue to rise and it's not a cure for dampness.The only real cure is a damp proof membrane which prevents any rising dampness reaching the vinyl floor and the adhesive.
Here's a short video diary of how we lay a DPM. Just click on the link below.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v7eCBNrLvjc&feature=player_embedded
Saturday 3 December 2011
Vinyl Flooring or Safety Flooring.What's the difference?
Many people think that Vinyl flooring,Safety flooring,Karndean and Amtico are all products made from totally different materials.In reality they're all made in the main, from PVC (poly vinyl chloride) and are all classed as vinyl flooring.which is a man made product.Lino or Linoleum is the one product not made from PVC and therefore cannot really be classed as vinyl flooring.Lino is actually made from a natural product,solidified linseed oil and nearly always has a canvas or hessian backing.Because of it's composition,Lino can be damaged quite badly by any trapped or rising dampness from subfloors.The hessian or canvas can rot and the lino itself can hole.PVC however is never effected by moisture in this way.The adhesive holding the vinyl can debond and cause the floor to lift,but the vinyl itself will not rot.
Safety flooring is basically vinyl flooring(pvc) with a few additives to enhance the grip underfoot.Usually silicine carbide,coloured quartz and aluminium oxide granules are added which also gives the shimmering metallic glistening effect usually associated with safety floors.Some safety flooring has a contoured finish,eg small raised bubbles.These are usually found in marine safety flooring environments,eg swimming pools,hydros etc.Again the flooring is vinyl or pvc but the manufacturing process is just slighly different.
Whether it's safety flooring,vinyl flooring,Karndean or Amtico, Specialist Floors North East can supply or supply and fit any of these products within a 25 mile radius of Newcastle Upon Tyne,including Gateshead,Durham,Sunderland and Northumberland.
Safety flooring is basically vinyl flooring(pvc) with a few additives to enhance the grip underfoot.Usually silicine carbide,coloured quartz and aluminium oxide granules are added which also gives the shimmering metallic glistening effect usually associated with safety floors.Some safety flooring has a contoured finish,eg small raised bubbles.These are usually found in marine safety flooring environments,eg swimming pools,hydros etc.Again the flooring is vinyl or pvc but the manufacturing process is just slighly different.
Whether it's safety flooring,vinyl flooring,Karndean or Amtico, Specialist Floors North East can supply or supply and fit any of these products within a 25 mile radius of Newcastle Upon Tyne,including Gateshead,Durham,Sunderland and Northumberland.
Wednesday 9 November 2011
Vinyl Flooring.What it involves.
Vinyl Flooring is a man made product derived from PVC or poly vinyl chloride.Everyone assumes that Lino or Linoleum is a form of vinyl flooring.In reality it's not.Lino is a natural product made mainly from solidified Linseed Oil and when checking Lino usually has a canvas or hessian backing.All the rest of the flooring products namely Safety Flooring,Non Slip Flooring,Amtico,Karndean,etc are classed as vinyl flooring and have no form of backing.
Vinyl flooring therefore can encompass entry level sheet vinyl from £7.50 /m2 up to Luxury Vinyl planks at £70/m2.It's all a question of personal requirements.In general terms however,whether it is cheap sheet vinyl or upmarket tile and plank vinyl the method of preparation and laying is the same.
We are a flooring company based centrally only 7 miles from Newcastle Upon Tyne, 7 miles from Sunderland,7 miles from Gateshead and 7 miles from Durham and we can offer the expertise required to lay vinyl sheet,vinyl tiles or vinyl planks correctly.
Vinyl flooring therefore can encompass entry level sheet vinyl from £7.50 /m2 up to Luxury Vinyl planks at £70/m2.It's all a question of personal requirements.In general terms however,whether it is cheap sheet vinyl or upmarket tile and plank vinyl the method of preparation and laying is the same.
We are a flooring company based centrally only 7 miles from Newcastle Upon Tyne, 7 miles from Sunderland,7 miles from Gateshead and 7 miles from Durham and we can offer the expertise required to lay vinyl sheet,vinyl tiles or vinyl planks correctly.
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